Rice paddies south of Hoi An

We left Hoi An Sunday morning at 7 a.m. and rode an easy 20 km through nearby farmland. Changes in temperature and flora are an easy reminder that we have traveled south. Coconut palms full of fruit dress the landscape, and farms are growing beautiful lettuce, scallions, peanuts, and flowers (spectacular red gladiolus). One of the regional farm products was potted kumquat trees – small and large, each loaded with near-ripe fruit. Vietnamese families place kumquat trees in their houses for the Tet Holiday much like Christmas trees are used to decorate homes in the West .

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Lanterns

Hoi An is an old city situated on the Thu Bon River near the South China Sea that served as an international trading port during the 15th through 19th centuries. The old town of Hoi An with its narrow streets, yellow buildings, and colorful lanterns was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. It was a lovely and picturesque area for a Saturday morning walkabout after six consecutive days of cycling.

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Our leader, Son, taught us a series of hand signals to help us communicate while riding single file and in close proximity to one another. We watch the signals coming from the person immediately ahead of us and provide them for the person behind us. This is invaluable for navigating city traffic, changing lanes, and signaling the group to slow down or stop.

Dodging potholes and water buffalo along the rural single lane paths requires quicker response time than hand signals allow. The water buffalo were everywhere this morning. And their size is formidable from a bike. Just as we were admiring a cluster of six or so on either side of our path, mom and her calf started running along beside us. Charming . . . until mom stepped into the path directly in front of me (Sharon) and looked me straight in the eye. Quick braking and dodging were required to avoid going face-to-face with those beautiful brown eyes and the wrath of a mom protecting her baby!

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Photo by
Tuabiht Rellahcs via Flickr.

We cycled 55 km in light rain on Friday morning, making our way to Đầm Lập An (Lap An lagoon) and the base of our assent of the Hai Van Pass. Other than getting completely drenched and a bit chilled, it was a fantastic ride. Crossing the Cau Tu Hien Bridge near Thon Phu An provided our first view of the South China Sea with deep green mountains as backdrop. The rain stopped toward the end of the morning, and we were left with misty clouds that gave our ride up the pass an ethereal quality and a different beauty that we might have experienced with sunshine.

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The downside of cycling Vietnam? There are very few! We can hardly imagine being able to experience so much of this country any other way. For example, on Friday we left Hue at 7 a.m., making our way by bike through the market and early morning traffic. A few kilometers outside of the city we began noticing small grass huts. Turns out these structures are constructed from rice straw and used to grow mushrooms. Our guide, Son, stopped to ask one of the farmers if we could see his small operation. He generously stopped his work and explained some of the process while Son translated.

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Hue is in central Vietnam and was the capital of the country from 1802 until 1945, during the Nguyen dynasty of emperors. We arrived by overnight train around 8:30 a.m. after a noisy, bumpy ride. Our sleeping berths were basic at best – a ‘firm’ (hard) platform for sleeping, pillow, and cover – four in each compartment, two on top and two on bottom. Somehow the up and down, back and forth, stop and start rhythm allowed for some sleep, and we disembarked no worse for the wear. After dropping bags at the hotel, we biked to breakfast and then around the city to see some of the major sites.

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We arrived in Ninh Binh around 5 pm yesterday after a lovely and challenging 83 km day of riding. Our bus took us the last few miles into this medium-sized city so that we could avoid the hazards of traffic. Ninh Binh is in Vietnam’s Red River Valley, an area rich in agriculture and natural resources. Its temples, waterways, and karst mountain scenery make it a natural tourist destination.

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Our rides are challenging! Most of our time is on single lane rural roads, some paved but many are packed dirt and rock with ruts and potholes. We share these roads with people, motorbikes, trucks, and livestock – cows, water buffalo and chickens are frequent travelers. As we pass through villages, children often shout, ‘Hallo!’ and wave or put their hand out for a high five. And wherever we are, the scenery is spectacular.

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The Mai Chau village is situated in a valley surrounded by rich green hillsides, picturesque by any measure. This is one of the biggest rice-producing regions in northwest Vietnam with acres and acres of rice paddies. During our visit, rice had been recently harvested; the fields were being cleared and prepared for the next crop. Vietnam is one of the world’s major rice producers, making it an important crop for the food supply and the national economy. Our biking though the valley and Mai Chau was spectacular, but the real treat was our homestay in the village.
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On Monday we left Hanoi for the village of Mai Chau, our first riding day. Impressions of Hanoi as we left — Mix of old and new. Skyscrapers. Women carrying vegetables in baskets suspended on a bamboo pole. Friendly. Fabulous food. Fluid traffic. Sidewalk cooking. Flowers. Fresh fruit. Pop up vegetable gardens. Lakes. Music. And, of course, motorbikes. 3.5 million motorbikes. Motorbikes parked on sidewalks. Women in heels on motorbikes. Dogs on motorbikes. Toddler sleeping on a motorbike. Family of 4 on a motorbike. Motorbikes everywhere.

More on our ride and our night in Mai Chau later.